It’s early morning in Oak Bay and the breeze has whipped up whitecaps on the ocean. Meters away from me waves are crashing on the rocks, while overhead, seagulls dip and dive and a bald eagle soars effortlessly towards the rocky outcroppings in search of an easy breakfast. Spring is trying to break through the chill of winter on Vancouver Island, but from the mineral waters of a heated pool on the cusp of the seashore, I’m ensconced in warmth, solitude and peace.
It’s day one of a weekend away at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel, a stately, luxurious property that’s all about casual elegance, deep comfort and the serenity that comes with sweeping ocean views. A longtime landmark in the Oak Bay neighbourhood, the hotel is a perfect retreat for a car-free getaway. A vibrant retail village is a 20-minute walk from the front door, while other walks entice us along the ocean, past windswept, log-strewn beaches.
We spend our first afternoon browsing through the shops in Oak Bay Village, most of them small, independently owned businesses showcasing island-crafted jewelry, apparel and art. We meander into bakeries, inhaling the aroma of freshly baked pastries, and peruse the paintings of local artists at an Oak Bay gallery. Colourful bouquets attract the eye from a local florist, while the community bookshop is a treasure trove of literature and a great place to browse.
Back at the hotel we feast on pear, fennel and arugula salad and a richly decadent roasted mushroom pizza at Faro, an Italian eatery known for its handcrafted pizza. Then it’s time to succumb at the Boathouse Spa, where I’m whisked away to blissville by the gentle hands of an aesthetician as she massages and rejuvenates my dry, tired skin.
We watch evening descend on Victoria from the seaside terrace, as lights flicker on around the steaming hot pools and firepits are lit for the night. The mineral pools are open until late, and a sunset or late night soak is tempting. Guests move between the large pool and the two jetted hot tubs, cooling off on chairs that overlook the choppy water.
Later, we head to the Snug Pub for a cocktail, stepping back in time as the hotel’s long history comes sharply into focus. The Oak Bay Hotel was built in 1927 in Tudor-style architecture and rebuilt after a fire in 1930. Its Snug Pub was the first neighbourhood pub in the city, and an enduring community institution that locals cherished and demanded be preserved. So in 2008, when the hotel was ripe for another rebuild, the pub’s door, stained glass window, hand-hewn beams and light fixtures were saved from demolition and used to retain the character of the old pub. Step through its doors today and you leave the contemporary grandeur of the new hotel behind you. The pub still feels like an old-world establishment punctuated by a great menu and the social ambience that has defined it for close to a century.
Preservation and re-use is taken seriously in Victoria, a city that’s all about history and a deep respect for the past. We see that ethos again when we head to Havn, a floating barge in the inner harbour that’s been retrofitted with saunas, hot and cold plunge pools, showers and relaxation areas.
Havn was a COVID project for two partners who purchased a 1943 barge and transformed it into an urban, social space where folks could soak quietly in pools and saunas on the upper deck while taking in the city views. To build it, they rescued old-growth logs that were floating in the water around the island, dried and milled it, and used it to build beautiful decks and saunas.
Spend a few hours moving between the plunge pools and the saunas, or wrapped in a robe in one of the relaxation areas, and it’s easy to see they achieved their goal. Havn truly is a phone-free (and for the most part food-free) environment where guests enjoy the meditative quiet or talk softly among themselves. Sessions are limited to three hours and the number of bookings is carefully restricted so it never feels crowded. We soaked until our fingers puckered, exfoliated with lavender-scented salt, rinsed our worries away and left with deliciously tingling skin. It was a perfect finale to an island weekend defined by ocean vistas, luxury and pampering.
If you go:
Make it a car-less weekend by flying on Helijet, North America’s largest helicopter airline. The 30-minute commute from downtown Vancouver to downtown Victoria is a first-class visual treat with spellbinding views and superb service.
www.helijet.com; (800) 665-4354
Oak Bay Beach Hotel is a luxurious property that makes for a fabulously comfortable weekend away. With its ocean-side mineral pools, Boathouse Spa and three restaurants on site, it offers guests a complete experience. A chauffeured hotel car is available to transport guests who choose to leave their vehicles at home.
www.oakbaybeachhotel.com; (250) 598-4556
Havn offers three-hour sessions for $75 per person, an experience that includes full access to its pools, saunas and relaxation rooms, robes, towels and shower amenities.
www.havnsaunas.com; (250) 508-0999
Don’t miss a dinner out at Vis-A-Vis Bouchon & Bar in Oak Bay Village. The small, fine dining French restaurant offers an exceptional menu of exquisitely prepared food and a carefully curated wine and cocktail menu – but reservations weekends are a must.
visavisoakbay.com; (250) 590-7424